The Eleanor of Toledo stockings are famous and infamous in the SCA, with several individuals having recreated the pattern over the years. Their experience and knowledge inspired me to do this project again.

Picture of stockings prior to preservation. Photo from the Uffizi Gallery Archives.
When I say again, I made a pair of these stockings in the past, using pictures to reverse-engineer the pattern. I want to make them again and share the process of how I did it. One issue with determining the pattern is that one stocking is inside out. Likely, the stockings were put on in a rush or by a stranger unfamiliar with her clothing. This pattern truly showcases the purl stitch, which is a good way to determine which stocking is considered the one the right side out. I am using the stocking that shows “yarn over, knit two together” as the stocking for this pattern, because yarn overs on the purl side a difficult and make little sense for the time this stocking comes from.

Section of stocking band.
This is the picture of the yarn over section of the band. I believe that this is inside out, due to how yarn overs and knit two togethers work in the process of knitting. Unfortunately, the stocking this came from is the more intact of the two stockings, so the paper will showcase how to create a pattern from the stocking and what I think the pattern used in the sixteen century actually was.
The stockings themselves are made of silk, likely dyed wtih cochineal. In Richard Rutt's "A History of Hand Knitting" he states that the stockings wwere crimson but faded over the centureis. It makes sense that a wealthy and business minded woman like the Duchess would have been able to afford the highest quality materials for her clothing. So much research has gone into analyzing the garments she was buried in, as can be seen by the number of individuals that have recreated her stockings.
For my project, I intend to show how the pattern can be engineered from the pictures of the stockings themselves. With over thirty years of knitting experience, I can look at how stitches appear and determine how they are made with needles. For example, in the picture above, the small holes are made with a technique called "yarn over" the small bumps on either side of the stitches show that it is the "purl" side of the fabric. I know that doing a yarn over and purl stitch combination is more complicated than a yarn over and knit combination, because you also have to reduce the stitches on either side of the yarn over so as to not have a permanent increas on the fabric. Because of this knowledge, I can assertain that we are looking at the reverse side of the fabric.
This is the first article of several detailing the reconstruction of the pattern of Eleanore of Toledo's stockings.




