The Eleanor of Toledo stockings are famous and infamous in the SCA, with several individuals having recreated the pattern over the years. Their experience and knowledge inspired me to do this project again.

Picture of stockings prior to preservation. Photo from the Uffizi Gallery Archives.

When I say again, I made a pair of these stockings in the past, using pictures to reverse-engineer the pattern. I want to make them again and share the process of how I did it. One issue with determining the pattern is that one stocking is inside out. Likely, the stockings were put on in a rush or by a stranger unfamiliar with her clothing. This pattern truly showcases the purl stitch, which is a good way to determine which stocking is considered the one the right side out. I am using the stocking that shows “yarn over, knit two together” as the stocking for this pattern, because yarn overs on the purl side a difficult and make little sense for the time this stocking comes from.

Section of stocking band.

This is the picture of the yarn over section of the band. I believe that this is inside out, due to how yarn overs and knit two togethers work in the process of knitting. Unfortunately, the stocking this came from is the more intact of the two stockings, so the paper will showcase how to create a pattern from the stocking and what I think the pattern used in the sixteen century actually was. 

The stockings themselves are made of silk, likely dyed wtih cochineal. In Richard Rutt's "A History of Hand Knitting" he states that the stockings wwere crimson but faded over the centureis. It makes sense that a wealthy and business minded woman like the Duchess would have been able to afford the highest quality materials for her clothing. So much research has gone into analyzing the garments she was buried in, as can be seen by the number of individuals that have recreated her stockings.

For my project, I intend to show how the pattern can be engineered from the pictures of the stockings themselves. With over thirty years of knitting experience, I can look at how stitches appear and determine how they are made with needles. For example, in the picture above, the small holes are made with a technique called "yarn over" the small bumps on either side of the stitches show that it is the "purl" side of the fabric. I know that doing a yarn over and purl stitch combination is more complicated than a yarn over and knit combination, because you also have to reduce the stitches on either side of the yarn over so as to not have a permanent increas on the fabric. Because of this knowledge, I can assertain that we are looking at the reverse side of the fabric.

This is the first article of several detailing the reconstruction of the pattern of Eleanore of Toledo's stockings.

I need to start this by stating, I realy love the site that was used for the event. Camp Impeesa is a Scout Camp outside of Paris, Ontario. It's a beautiful site, with many paths to walk and wander. This is the site where Fruits of Our Labours (FOOL) takes place every year. We try to get a cabin in the main lodge because I experience some pretty nasty anxiety associated wtih my allergy. (I am working on it, I promise). The biggest reason I love the site is because Scout's Canada has very, very strict rules on cannabis. Very strict. So I feel safe at the site and my anxiety going to events is getting better. It would have been nice if people had actually followed the rules and not smoked up, but I had four exposures over the course of the week. (I am thanking the gods that I didn't go to the bog party. It was bad.) It is unfortunate that several people thought I was over reacting about my allergy. I am fast coming to the conculsion that the day I get hauled away in an ambulance from anaphylaxis will be the day people actually take my allergy seriously.

It was the longest camping event my spouse and I have ever attended, and it was very relaxing. I got a ton of fleece processed and he got to stab a lot of people. There were several classes that were designed as workshops, including my own eight days to knit a sock. There was a lot of class overlap, so one of the people taking it was unable to attend every day and finish the sock. If even one person wants to learn, I will happily teach. For a while there, I didn't think I would get to teach the class.

I did spend a fair bit of time at gate. And by a fair bit of time, I mean I stayed at gate pretty much the entire week and moved my class up there. I made a fabulous new friend in the process and shenanigans are planned. I blame her for my new video game that I really don't have time for.

Leading up to the event was some of the most challenging few weeks, as we had a lot going on. The Baronial Polling was taking place and my spouse and I were candidates. We didn't get the positions, which would have been fine, except I have had a steady stream of people telling me what is wrong with me as a person and I why we didn't get it. Yes, you read that right: People have had no issue telling me that I am a flawed human being to my face and making me feel like absolute shit about it. I understand that these individuals think they are helping, but I would like that behaviour to stop. I now understand why people go for those positions once and then never again.

I completed a disgusting amount of sewing during the five weeks leading up to the event, since Sebastian was put on vigil for Master of Defense and he requested a very specific piece of garb. He asked for a cassock. Which meant 171 buttons and 171 hand sewn button holes. I will probably do an entire post about that piece at some point when I have the energy. I am already working on other projects to keep my mind off of "helpful advice". He did look glorious. I was particularly amused when I realized that His Majesty and Sebastian were wearing the exact same material in different colours. It made his elevation that much more for him. And he went into it wanting to be very, very extra. He made a hat, and this is a man that doesn't sew. He did a phenomenal job. Our friend made him his collar and I am so proud at the blood, sweat, and tears she put into the project. It looks exactly how I envisioned it and he was so moved by the symbolism. The collar has the populace badges of every kingdom he has lived and played in on it. Add in the 60" Montante he ordered, the 8lbs of wool for his cassock, the 171 buttons, and the hat, he looked about as extra as he could.

The highlight of the event for Sebastian is the one moment that still hasn't quite sunk in for me yet. And that is receiving my Crucible. This is a grant level award and I honestly thought it was a couple of years away. The problem with being recognized for A&S and service is because every time I move to a new Kingdom, I have to start from the beginning. It was a continual surprise when people find out that my recognitions are actually minor and few. And I will be honest, it was getting disheartening. Especially when people think it's okay to publicly disparage my works, which happens more of than you realize.

I love this hobby. I love this game. I also know that there are some very neurodivergent people in this group that say and do things that they think will help you, but in fact do the opposite. I also know that I am very blunt. I work in a male dominated field and was raised in a male dominated environment within the hockey industry. In the last few years, my tendency to sugar coat facts to salve peoples emotions has waned. Being direct has worked best for me professionally and despite all the well intentioned people telling me to change my personality, I don't think that is going to happen any time soon.

Brief History

• The oldest mancala board discovered was in Jordan, dug into the floor of a Neolithic dwelling that was converted into a Roman bath house. There is early evidence that the game has been around since 2^nd century AD. It is mentioned in a book of songs from the 10^th century in Mecca

• The Mills Games, 3, 6, 9, 12, and Lasker are found in evidence around the world, with one of the oldest diagrams of 12 Mills found in Egypt in 1400 BCE. There is evidence of boards carved into bath houses, homes, tables, church pews, roof tiles, and tapestries throughout history. It is called by many different names in different cultures, commonly know as Merels, Mills, or Morris baed on the Latin term, mareculus, the diminutive of man or the Latin word, merellus, meaning “game piece”.

Mancala Rules

• To have the most tokens in your mancala at the end of game

Set Up: Each player sits opposite each other, the long sides with six wells per side facing a player. The large well on each side is the “mancala” for each player. The mancala on the right is each player’s designated mancala.

Game Play: On each turn, a player will take all the tokens from any well. Moving counterclockwise, place one token in each well until you run out. This includes placing one in your own mancala, but NOT your opponent’s mancala. Capture any of your opponents tokens you can. Once the turn completes, it alternates to the other player.

Capturing Your Opponent’s Tokens: If you place the last token of your turn in an empty well on your side of the board, you captur all the tokens in the well on the opposite side of the board. Place all the captured tokens and the capturing token into your own mancala. If your last stone lands in your own mancala, you may tak another turn.

Winning the Game: As soon as all wells on one side of the game board are empty, the game is over. Any remaining tokens on the other side belong to the player whose side it is. The person with the most tokens in their mancala or remaining on their side of the board wins the game.

9 Mills or 9 Mens Morris

• To create “mills” of three pieces in a row, reducing your opponent’s pieces to two.

Set Up: Each player has nine pieces of different colours, shapes or markings, and an empty playing board.

Game Play: Decide who will go first. Players then take turns placing their pieces on the board. Pieces can be placed anywhere but may not share the same point. If a player puts three of their own pieces in a single, unbroken line, it is called a mill. For every mill formed, that player may remove one of their opponent’s pieces, starting with pieces not currently part of a mill.

Once all the pieces are on the board, each player takes turn moving their pieces around to create mills. Pieces may only move to an adjacent point connected by a line. They cannot jump pieces. The goal is to keep making mills. Mills can be broken and reformed by moving out of the mill and then back into it. Each time a mill is formed, a piece may be taken from the opposing player.

Flying: Once you are reduced to three pieces, you may “fly” around the board, moving your piece to any unoccupied point on the board, including jumping over pieces.

Winning the Game: When a player is reduced to two pieces, the game is over and the player with the most pieces remaining on the board is declared the winner.

12 Mills or 12 Mens Morris

• To create “mills” of three pieces in a row, reducing your opponent’s pieces to two.

Set Up: Each player has twelve pieces of different colours, shapes or markings, and an empty playing board.

Game Play: Decide who will go first. Players then take turns placing their pieces on the board. Pieces can be placed anywhere but may not share the same point. If a player puts three of their own pieces in a single, unbroken line, it is called a mill. For every mill formed, that player may remove one of their opponent’s pieces, starting with pieces not currently part of a mill.

Once all the pieces are on the board, each player takes turn moving their pieces around to create mills. Pieces may only move to an adjacent point connected by a line. They cannot jump pieces. The goal is to keep making mills. Mills can be broken and reformed by moving out of the mill and then back into it. Each time a mill is formed, a piece may be taken from the opposing player.

Flying: Once you are reduced to three pieces, you may “fly” around the board, moving your piece to any unoccupied point on the board, including jumping over pieces.

Winning the Game: When a player is reduced to two pieces, the game is over and the player with the most pieces remaining on the board is declared the winner.

This article was written by Sebastian de Sandoval.This summer, he took the time to paint a marshalling staff. Below is his process, pictures, what he learned, and what he would do differently.

Upon deciding to make a marshalling staff for myself, I looked upon the bare wood I had acquired, and went, "How can I make this *more*?" Inspired by the fact that a C-7 rifle with its stock fully extended is precisely one meter in length (and thus can be used a field-expedient meterstick), I decided to add measurement markings to it that could be used in the field, when a marshal may not have another measuring device handy.

As such, I noted all the length maximums for fencing weapons by Society standards, comprising a table of nine values (albeit with some duplications) to give the maximum grip, blade, and overall weapon length for daggers, single swords, and two-handed swords.

Designating one end of the staff to be 'zero', I then measured and marked rings along the length of it to indicate the designated length, giving the staff a distinctive and asymmetrical appearance. At the least, I do not have to worry about confusing it with someone else's!

After painting it in the customary gold and black colours, I added some hand-painted lettering to indicate the lengths on each ring to reduce confusion when using it in the field. As I customarily carry a hardcopy set of the rules with me (for event sites with no internet connectivity), I didn't feel it necessary to write what each one was intended to measure, only the measurement between it and the 'zero' end of the stick. (The 'zero' is also not marked, but is trivial to determine which end is which by paying attention to the sequence of the measurements.)

I did also consider putting an 'endcap' on the stick of paint so that the zero would not be at the end and subject to being shortened by wear and tear over time, but the convenience of being able to put a fully-assembled weapon end-down on the ground next to it to measure the overall length was more persuasive to me. As the existing end is fully painted, any significant amount of damage will be clear to me and I can check the measurements to revalidate it if a significant amount of bare wood becomes visible again.

An additional thing I may still add, or add to the next version I make, is a series of marks of 0.5"/12mm distances to measure the deflection of blade tips for flexibility compliance. Rather than a single measure, I contemplate an extended set of them because it will be easier to align the weapon being tested to them in the field if there are a number of places to pick from -- I cannot count on there always being a table or other option to secure the weapon/blade being tested at a consistent height, so building some flexibility into the measure will make it overall more useful.